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Signs of anxiety in cats to watch for – is your pet concerned?

Thu, 04 Feb 2021 16:37:28 GMT

Cats are sensitive creatures! They like routine and don’t cope well with changes in their environment. It’s not always easy to spot if your cat is anxious or stressed, but it’s important to act fast if they are to limit ant physical or emotional distress symptoms - you may start to see stress behaviours like spraying, scratching or hiding if your pet is unhappy!
So, if you spot even small changes in your furry friend’s behaviour, or if they seem to be acting out of character, try to find the reason - the sooner you get to the root of the problem, the sooner your cat will return to their usual self!

HOW TO SPOT SIGNS OF ANXIETY IN YOUR CAT

If your cat has stopped eating, is behaving aggressively or spraying indoors, it could be a sign that they are stressed.

Physical signs of cat anxiety include:

Trembling or shaking
Rapid breathing
Licking their nose frequently
Excessive vocalisation such as growling, hissing or yowling
Dilated pupils
Crouching down frequently
Ears flat against their head
Rapid breathing
Lethargy and sleeping more than usual
Eating non-food items - such as plastic or wool
Over grooming, creating bald patches or sores on their coat
Diarrhoea and vomiting
Significant change in their weight (loss or gain)

Behavioural signs of cat anxiety include:

Urinating outside the litter tray
Urine spraying around the house
Excessive scratching of furniture
Aggressive behaviour towards you or other pets
Constant meowing
Pacing around the house, often accompanied by meowing
Easily spooked by noises or movement
If you are concerned about your cat, always check with your vet to rule out any illness that your feline friend may have contracted. Then, once you are sure that your pet has no physical condition, you can delve deeper into the cause of their anxiety.

REASONS WHY YOUR CAT MAY BE ANXIOUS

Getting to the bottom of why your cat is anxious may be a little tricky! So ask yourself the following questions and maybe you can put your finger on it.

Have you thought about their resources? Cats don’t like their food and drink bowls close to their litter trays! They’re clean animals and don’t like to use a litter tray that has not been ‘refreshed’; they also like to have their own individual space to escape to, like a high perch, away from any other pets.

Have you moved home recently or had some building works done around the house? Cats like familiarity so any major changes could unsettle them and make them feel anxious.

Have you brought home another pet? It may take a while for your cat to accept that they’re not the only one who will get attention in your home. You may have to work at helping your cat and dog to get along a bit better.

Is there a new baby in the house? New smells and sounds around a home that has been calm and peaceful till now, could be unnerving your cat.

Is there another cat on the block? If your cat is an outdoor cat, there may be a new feline intruder on their patch which is making them nervous.

HOW TO HELP YOUR CAT STAY RELAXED

Cats will pick up stress from you, so if you are feeling worried and tense, try to relax and you may find your cat follows suit. But if you are totally laid back, make sure your cat has a safe environment they can escape to, make sure their daily essentials (like food, litter tray etc.) are easily accessible, play some calming music and have some regular quiet play time set aside for them - remember cats like routine!

It’s always important to consider any underlying health conditions, so if tweaks to your normal routine with your cat don’t seem to be having an effect, get them checked out by your vet.

Try FELIWAY to reduce kitty anxiety. A FELIWAY Optimum Diffuser is an excellent way to help comfort cats at home. Leave it plugged in to help ensure that your cat is provided with the safe and secure messages at all times, so that they are ready for whatever life throws at them!

Coronavirus changes to our routine: 3 Vet expert tips to help your cat adapt

Thu, 04 Feb 2021 16:33:30 GMT

In these challenging days your cat will be obliged to share their home with you and your family all day. This change is difficult for us but also your cat.

Normally you have a part-time relationship with your feline friend; you are out of the house for many hours working and enjoying your social life, and your cat can be very happy when you finally come back home. However, in the current situation having all of the family around all day long can be very stressful for your cat. Remember, cats love peace and quiet and being in control of their home and routine.

That’s why we've asked a Vet expert for useful tips :

GOOD PAMPERING AND AFFECTION BUT NOT TOO MUCH

“Your cat knows that this strong proximity you’re having is not the one you usually have when you’re on holiday, they can recognise the climate and realise that they haven't faced any trips or travel. This sudden change in its routine sounds strange also for your furry friend”, says the behaviourist Sabrina Giussani.

Pampering your cat is a very comforting activity for you and your cat but we have to be careful with this human behaviour in order not to generate, even unconsciously, any stress or discomfort in your pet!

You can also play with your lovely friend, see ideas below.

You and your family being at home all day could annoy your cat, as they may find it more difficult to find a quiet place to have their cat nap. Make sure your cat can still access their favourite resting places and elevated places where they like to watch what is going on!

NO PANIC AND PLAY TOGETHER

First of all, no panic! Your cat can pick up on your anxiety, so it is better to limit manifestations of stress and agitation to avoid transferring this to them.

Try to use this time to deepen the knowledge of your cat and reinforce your relationship [link to cat body language quiz], when your cat shows they’re ready you can play funny games with them and find new ways to be happy together!

1. Hide and seek

Hide some treats - which are part of the cat's daily ration - under the corner of a carpet or towel lying on the floor. You can play together to find them

2. Water game

Put a small quantity of water in a basin and dip a plastic ball or a paper boat: play with the cat to push the object here and there on the surface of the liquid

3. Hunting game!

Fill the bottom of a cardboard box with at least two layers of balls made of paper and throw a toy mouse so that the cat can "find it" as if it were hunting.

4. Catch it if you can

Build a paper plane and challenge the cat to catch him during the flight. Alternatively, you might consider a covered or contained litter box which is a good way of containing any spillage.

CONSIDER FELIWAY

Feliway Classic Diffuser sends a natural message of comfort that creates a peaceful, reassuring environment in the house and helps to prevent and manage the stress in your cat and being even happier together!

Follow our latest news with tips and tricks by subscribing to our newsletter now.

If you are staying home with your cat, share your stories on facebook with the #feliwayathome with us !

Stay safe!

The FELIWAY team

#feliwayathome

Does My Cat Have Separation Anxiety?

Thu, 04 Feb 2021 16:28:59 GMT

Is your kitty being a bit of a socialite? Our furry pals all have their own personalities and if your cat is a very sociable creature then they might miss you when you’re out!

We all love a kitty with a friendly personality but if it becomes clear that they are experiencing stress when you leave home then your cat could be experiencing a fear of being left alone. Depending on your kitty’s personality they might be ok with a bit of alone time, but struggle with longer periods apart or they might get nervous every time you leave. There are a few stress-related behaviours that can manifest if your cuddly kitty has difficulty being without you.

3 SIGNS YOUR KITTY IS EXPERIENCING SEPARATION ANXIETY

1. Does Your Kitty Urinate Outside The Litter Box?

While stress from being alone isn't the only cause of peeing outside the litter box, (and you should always get your kitty checked out by the vet if they are doing this regularly), there are some key signs to watch out for.

Have you noticed that your cat is often urinating on items that smell a lot like you, such as your clothing or bedding? If so, this could be a sign that your cat has separation-related issues and this is a symptom of their stress.

2. Vocal Expression When You’re Getting Ready To Leave

You may notice that your kitty’s stress starts when he picks up your departure cues, such as putting on your shoes or packing a suitcase. Your pet may show stress by vocalising more than usual or keeping very close by you - or even by withdrawing completely and hiding.

Also, if your pawsome pal appears worried when you arrive home or there is evidence of unwanted behaviours (such as peeing, scratching or overgrooming) that have only occurred while you were away, this may suggest that they’re stressed and anxious when you are not at home.

3. Is Your Kitty Showing Other Destructive Behaviours?

If your kitty is acting a bit out of sorts and there’s a change in their appetite (gain or loss), illness or throwing up, scratching or excessive self-grooming, this is likely a sign that your kitty is stressed. As always, you should visit your vet to check that your kitty doesn’t have any medical conditions, and when this is ruled out, consider how you can help them feel calmer when left at home alone. After all, it’s inevitable that you will have to leave the house sometimes and helping your kitty feel comfortable on their own is key to their happiness, confidence, and reducing destructive behaviours.

HOW TO HELP YOUR KITTY FEEL SECURE WHEN YOU’RE OUT

Consider How To Keep Your Kitty Occupied

While your cat may find it uncomfortable when you’re not at home, it’s also likely that they’re feeling stressed due to a lack of stimulation while you’re out. Frequent social interaction such as stroking and play sessions are extremely important as they help you bond with your furry friend and build trust. This also helps prevent your kitty from being bored or anxious so these interactions can reduce kitty stress.

If you’re out all day then consider if you have a friend, cat sitter or neighbour who can call in and check on your kitty for playtime or to change your kitty’s toys. You could also consider leaving the radio on, or playing some calming classical music to help your kitty feel less alone.

Make sure that you leave your kitty with plenty of toys to hold their attention - food puzzles with high-value treats inside are a great way to keep your cat occupied for hours as well as helping them to exercise. You could even create a little food hunt for your kitty, hiding small pieces of food around the house, such as on perches, to encourage your cat to be active while you’re out.

Start Off With Small Absences and Build These Up

It’s important to prepare your cat for their alone time slowly; start with small absences while you’re still at home, by leaving the room and coming back - then build this up slowly. Cats are very fond of routine so quick changes can make it much harder for them to adjust. If you have a long holiday or absence planned then try and set aside some time to help your cat adjust as easily as possible, getting them gradually used to alone time.

Keep Arrivals And Departures Low Key

When you are leaving or arriving home, try not to make a fuss of your cat. Obviously, you’ll miss them but making it into a big deal can confuse your kitty and make them more anxious for your departure next time!

Try to keep coming and going non-emotional, quiet and short - just a wave or brief acknowledgment is all that is needed. When you return, only greet your cat once they stop seeking attention (for example when the vocalisation stops) and only give them some attention when they are calm.

Create A Calm Spot For Your Kitty

Make sure that your kitty has somewhere they can go to feel safe; incorporate a kitty relaxation area in your home for them to go and sleep or perch and watch what’s going on. Cats enjoy a high vantage point, so consider adding perches, cat trees, and cat-friendly shelving to give them the best environment. Some cats also like to hide away occasionally as this is comforting, so provide them with a safe, relaxing area such as a cardboard box with blankets inside.

When you’re going out, also ensure that your cat has plenty of water (cats will often prefer this if it is flowing water, like a cat drinking fountain), as well as a food bowl, litter box and scratching post. All of these should be kept in different locations and there should be at least one resource per cat in your home.

KEEPING YOUR KITTY CALM WILL HELP THEIR SEPARATION ANXIETY

If you think that your kitty is experiencing stress when you leave then don’t panic; you can help them by providing enough stimulation while you’re out, creating a stress-free space for them and ensuring they have everything they need.

You can also consider using a FELIWAY OPTIMUM diffuser to help reduce any stress or worry that your kitty might be experiencing. This provides a calming, happy environment which helps your kitty to cope with any changes or disruptions to their normal routine or environment, such as longer absences.

Use the diffuser in the room where your cat is most likely to spend their time. If you’re using this before a vacation, use it one week before your holiday to provide a calm environment for your departure and during your leave. Use continually if you’re out every day for work, and this will help your kitty feel more secure and reassured.

Minimising barking during a call

Thu, 04 Feb 2021 16:05:11 GMT

Amazon have seen a huge increase in searches for noise cancelling headphones and we have seen an increase in searches for dogs barking. To help you manage this we have put to together our top tips to help you keep your dogs barking to a minimum while working from home?

Getting used to working with your dog in the background can be unusual for many and takes a bit of adjustment. This includes your dog barking just as the important bit of a call comes up! Here are some tips to limit any of these surprise noises during a meeting with your boss!

FILL (AND FREEZE) A KONG

You can fill a Kong full of something super tasty (e.g. dog safe peanut butter) and give this to your dog just before the call begins. If you can, freeze the Kong with the tasty treat inside as this will keep your dog entertained for longer.

LOAD UP A LICKIMAT

Keep things interesting by trying something different spread on the Lickimat, such as squashed banana or chopped vegetables & greek yoghurt, dog friendly peanut butter or squeezy cheese.

FILL UP A SNUFFLE MAT

Tempting treats can be hidden in a snuffle mat including chopped apple, bite size treats or even their kibble.

EXERCISE

Exercise your dog just before a call (following the current guidelines for leaving your home). then when you join the call your dog is suitably tired and will hopefully sleep through.

CHEW OR PUZZLE TOYS

These are a brilliant way to entertain your dog. Save them up for a special occasion (such as when you are on a call), this means when they come out your dog is even more excited about it! Examples of these are buffalo horns, antlers, yak chews, coffeewood chews /anco roots.

SEPARATE YOURSELVES

it is going to be very beneficial for you and your dog to spend time apart, as one day you will be going back to the office. Why not shut them in a different room for a period of time during the day to get them used to spending time alone. (If this is something you are concerned about, why not read our blog on preparing your dog for when you go back to work).

Follow our latest news with tips and tricks by subscribing to our newsletter now.

If you are staying home with your dog, share your stories on facebook with the #adaptilathome with us !

Stay safe!

The ADAPTIL team

#adaptilathome

Tips on Preparing Your Dog for Back to Work

Thu, 04 Feb 2021 16:01:42 GMT

Your dog has had to adjust to a new lifestyle with the lockdown, we have been home alot more and spent more time interacting with them. When we go back to work they will then need to adjust to a new schedule which will include spending more time alone.

There is a chance many dogs are going to suffer with separation anxiety which makes it extremely important to do something now to help prevent that.

HOW TO PREPARE YOUR DOG FOR GOING BACK TO WORK:

1. Start with creating a safe haven (a den), somewhere comfortable with blankets or bedding and a place your dog can safely rest in peace and quiet and where they will not be disturbed. If kids are around, make sure they know to leave your dog alone when they are in this area as your dog is trying to relax. You can make this slightly more hidden and secure with blankets or linen.

2. Use an ADAPTIL Calm Diffuser in the area your dog spends the most time to provide your dog with comforting pheromones that are scientifically proven to naturally reassure dogs, just like mothers reassure their puppies and help reduce their worries and help dogs through learning to be alone and to perceive changes or potential fears in a calmer way.
A bored dog may become anxious, it’s best to build up self-confidence with being alone now whilst you are home as you can build the time alone and away from you gradually. Starting for a short period of time, e.g. when you put the bins out, leave them in the house. Take any chance you get to enforce and repeat this. If it's a nice day maybe spend time outdoors whilst they stay inside relaxing. If you are working, work in a separate room to them.

3. Create positive associations with being alone. You can provide long-lasting food puzzles or activity feeders. This will leave them with a positive feeling, but can also distract them from the fact they're alone and reduce their worries. Also, chewing and licking are both self-soothing for dogs and if they are worried at first, this can help sooth them.
Use exercise to keep them physically and mentally active. Use up their extra energy that could be directed into unwanted behaviours if left with nothing else to do.

4. Play some slow music during the day. Your dog may not like the change from hearing voices constantly throughout their day to complete silence. Have music or a radio talk show on during the day so when you go out you can keep it consistent. Reggae music seems to be a favourite for relaxing dogs, otherwise classical music can be calming.
Dogs like their routine and it may worry them if this changes suddenly, try to walk and feed them at the times you would when you go back to work.

5. Practice your new routine before you go back to your work gradually and build it up several weeks beforehand. This transition back to work can be tough for everyone but particularly hard for dogs to understand as they may not understand why this change is happening or know when you’re coming back. They’ll likely be scared, worried or anxious.

Finally, stay calm when we do go back to normal and you leave and return. Avoid any extra affection just before you go as it may trigger the dog’s anticipation of your departure. As hard as it might be, just say a quick and calm goodbye. Try to avoid interacting with your dog immediately when you come through the door. You don’t want your dog to get too excited when you’re back, otherwise this will be all they think about when you’re not there. When you return only engage and fuss your dog when they are calm and have all 4 paws on the floor, this is also rewarding your dog for their relaxed behaviour and not jumping up. Your dog might become anxious or adopt a whining or barking routine once you’re out the door.

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Stay safe!

Is Your Dog Being Clingy?

Thu, 04 Feb 2021 15:57:02 GMT

Many of you have reported changes in your dogs since the lockdown, one of these reported signs is being clingy. This is something that can be seen in dogs that are worried and are trying to get reassurance from something that is comforting - you!

You need to get them used to spending time alone, this will help you and your dog in the future. We have put some top tips together to help.

HOW TO HELP PREVENT AND STOP A DOG FROM BEING CLINGY:

Creating a safe haven (a den), somewhere comfortable with blankets or bedding and a place your dog can safely rest in peace and quiet and where they will not be disturbed.

Build up self-confidence with being alone now, start leaving them for a short period of time and build this up - feed them a filled Kong or a super tasty long-lasting chew. This will take their focus away from being alone.

Keep your dog mentally stimulated throughout the day and especially just before you leave them. There are several ways to keep your dog mentally engaged, such as playtime with you but also when you’re not there.

Use an ADAPTIL Calm Diffuser in the area your dog spends the most time to provide your dog with comforting pheromones that are scientifically proven to naturally reassure dogs, just like mothers reassure their puppies and help reduce their worries and help dogs through learning to be alone and to perceive changes or potential fears in a calmer way.

Dogs are loving having us around but it's important we prepare them for the future changes.

Follow all our tips by subscribing to our newsletter #adaptilathome

Stay safe!

How To Help Your Dog Feel Secure When Home Alone

Thu, 04 Feb 2021 15:52:56 GMT

DOES YOUR DOG FIND IT DISTRESSING BEING LEFT HOME ALONE?

You are not alone! Lockdown has unfortunately disturbed many dogs' usual routine of being left home for periods of the day. They have been through a period of having a lot of company and people in the home, however, as we can no longer all be with our pets twenty-four hours a day, it’s important to help your dog adjust to being home alone.

We have put together our essential list of tips to follow to help your dog cope with staying home alone. Or if you would like to see a video on managing dog home alone click to see more information and articles.

Training

1. Start Small, Then Increase Alone Time Slowly

To prevent your dog from experiencing a fear of being alone, you should get them used to small periods of time alone. You don’t need to leave the house entirely but you can leave them alone in a room - just for less than 10 minutes initially - and then return when they are calm and quiet. You can slowly increase their alone time until they become more comfortable with their own company.

2. Only Reward Calm Behaviour!

It’s understandable that your dog may cry sometimes when you leave - they like being around you! But, however tempting it might be, it’s important not to reward negative or agitated pet behaviour with fuss and attention. By comforting your pet, you can reinforce their worries! Instead, teach your pet that being home alone isn’t something to be afraid of; when you return, greet your dog - but calmly to avoid overreaction or negative associations. With time, your pet will soon learn that you’re going to return, and there’s nothing to be worried about!

3. Train your dog to recognise when you’re leaving

To help your dog understand that they will be alone for a little while, you can train them using different signals. For example, a wave and a word like ‘bye’ could mean I’ll see you in 4 hours while raising your hand and saying something like ‘won’t be long’ can let them know that you’ll be back shortly. Some dogs may be fine without a ‘bye’ but it's best to avoid any fuss when you’re departing or arriving.

4. Tire your dog out before you leave

The best thing you can do before leaving your pooch home alone is to give them some exercise. When you take your dog for their morning walk or exercise, they’ll likely fall asleep afterwards! This gives you the chance to leave the house without your dog feeling worried.

5. Keep your dog occupied

You should make sure that there are constructive ways for your dog to spend their time when you’re not around. Use a food-dispensing toy rather than their regular food bowl which will occupy and challenge them. Some dog toys offer various difficulties so you can make sure that your dog is active and engaged while you're away. If they get bored they may get destructive, so leave small tasks and fun toys to play with but make sure that none of the toys could be chewed apart or swallowed.

6. Leave them with tasty treats

Fill (and freeze) a Kong: You can fill a Kong full of something super tasty (e.g. dog safe peanut butter) and give this to your dog just before the call begins. If you can, freeze the Kong with the tasty treat inside as this will keep your dog entertained for longer.

Load up a Lickimat: Keep things interesting by trying something different spread on the Lickimat, such as squashed banana or chopped vegetables & greek yoghurt, dog friendly peanut butter or squeezy cheese.

Fill up a snuffle mat: Tempting treats can be hidden in a snuffle mat including chopped apple, bite size treats or even their kibble.

7. Don’t give in to emotional blackmail

Even if it might be tempting, don’t re-enter the room if your pet starts crying, whining, howling or barking. Wait until they’re quiet and then go in and give them praise for being calm with your tone of voice and a gentle stroke. Remember to give them treats only when you leave and not on your return; providing a treat on your return will only make them more eager and anxious for you to come home!

8. How can ADAPTIL help?

The ADAPTIL Calm Home Diffuser is a simple yet clinically proven solution that can help calm and relax your dog at home by providing constant comfort. It supports your dog in situations like loud noises, staying alone, visitors, and other occasions that may make them nervous. Plug the Diffuser in the room where your dog spends most of their time to help reassure them during their alone time. When you leave you will be leaving them with a ‘’hug from their mum feeling’’ which will provide them with some comforting support.

When You Leave

1. Don’t Make A Fuss When Leaving

When it’s time for you to leave, don’t turn it into a big event! All that’s needed is a simple cue to help your dog understand that you’re going - and that you will come back! You can work with your dog to establish a ‘leaving’ cue during training - it may help to have two different cues; one for shorter amounts of time, and one for longer durations (over 4 hours). If your dog seems stressed, try not to give them lots of attention - rewarding your pet with fuss can reinforce anxious behaviours. Just as in their training, only pay them attention when they’re calm.

2. Try A Dog Camera While You’re Away

Want to see how your pet reacts when you’re away? A dog camera, set up in the room where your pet spends most of their time, can be a good way to see how they get on - and can be a great support tool for training. For example, many cameras allow you to see and hear your dog and to speak to them from a remote location, and even dispense treats. So, you could comfort them - say by asking them to sit - then dispense a rewarding treat.

When You Come Home

Greet Your Pet Calmly

A calm, relaxed demeanor is as important when you return to your pooch as it is when you leave, so while both you and your dog will be excited to see each other, try to keep the greeting relaxed and positive. Always wait for your dog to be calm before you interact with them. If your dog seems distressed, try a simple command, such as a ‘sit’ and reward them. Always reward positive reactions to your absence, and never punish your dog for negative behaviours. Punishments will only confuse your pet, and may cause them to be more stressed or anxious.

Pet Anxiety Month Blog: Blue Cross

Mon, 23 Mar 2020 10:57:26 GMT

Tasha Cole, Blue Cross Animal Behaviour Coordinator and Ryan Neile, Blue Cross Head of Behaviour Service Operations kindly developed this blog to help raise awareness and give advice to pet owners for Pet Anxiety Month.

Pet Anxiety Month is managed by Ceva Animal Health Ltd, manufactures of ADAPTIL® and FELIWAY®. Ceva Animal Health Ltd donate ADAPTIL® Calm on-the-go Collars to Blue Cross Rehoming Centres, helping to provide pheromone support for dogs in kennels.

Why is raising awareness about stress/anxiety in pets valuable?

Tasha (Blue Cross):

It’s really important for us to help make people aware, how animals show they are stressed or anxious so they can help better support their pets. Sometimes a behaviour an animal exhibits when stressed or worried can be seen as misbehaving or being problematic when actually it is a result of the stress they are under.

If people can recognise the signs then they may be able to help the animal by reducing the stressors, and therefore improve their behaviour, which is beneficial for everyone involved.

What anxieties do you commonly see in cats and dogs and in what situations at Blue Cross?

Tasha (Blue Cross):

In a kennel or cattery environment we can see a variety of stress behaviours. With cats this could be hiding away, retreating into themselves, not able to interact with us, reacting negatively towards other cats they see, inappropriate toileting, defensive or aggressive behaviour.

With dogs we sometimes see barking and howling, chewing items or ripping up bedding, hiding away, alarm barking towards people or dogs, refusing to walk a certain direction or go to a certain area.

How does Blue Cross help pets with anxieties?

Tasha (Blue Cross):

We look at the individual animal needs and try to provide the best environment for them. For cats this may mean using a quieter environment or area away from other cats. We use pheromone products to help reduce stress and look at making the environment feel safe, so providing plenty of hiding areas on different levels for them where they can retreat to if they feel anxious.

With dogs we make the kennel as comfy as possible with toys and chews to interact with. We use pheromone collars to help reduce stress, and we also provide them with opportunities to express natural behaviour, channelling their needs towards appropriate play and training. We also give lots of one on one time and quiet time with us in the offices whilst we are working. We also use our amazing team of foster homes, which is invaluable for animals that find kennels stressful.

Ryan (Blue Cross):

As well as being mindful not to place our animals in situations where they might become stressed or anxious, we also use training to build their confidence, and help them to overcome the challenges that are causing them to be fearful.

We use exciting toys and really tasty food and reward them for learning new things. The skills they learn can help them to feel more confident, and, if approached in the right way, can become part of a behaviour modification plan used to reduce fears and anxieties. Each animal is a unique individual, so our plans will be tailored to suit them.

Please share a cat and/or dog ‘pet anxiety’ success story at Blue Cross.

Tasha (Blue Cross):

Snuggles came to us looking for a new home, she had previously been kept as an indoor cat and was finding this stressful and kept trying to escape out of the house. She found the cattery frightening and initially hid away hissing and growling if anyone came close. We kept her surrounding environment as quiet as possible and moved the other cats away from her.

We had a small team of people spending time with her, without putting pressure on to touch her, we just sat quietly and chatted to her and left tasty treats, so her days became more predictable and therefore less scary. It took several weeks but this helped her to trust us and eventually she became confident enough to come out to eat the treats and then she started interacting with us through play. She then began rubbing against us and asking for touch.

It was important that we read Snuggles’ body language well and let her come to us when she was ready, rather than trying to force her to interact with us as it's likely this would have caused her great stress and been detrimental to our relationship with her. Snuggles found a fantastic new home where she settled in quickly and developed a great bond with her new owners by following the same approach as we had. She has gone on to have a happy life.

Jock, an older West Highland terrier, had a very strong bond with his previous owner. He struggled in kennels, was very nervous and wary of new people. He was also very worried when being handled and yelped when being groomed and sometimes walking. Once we had ruled out any medical or pain issues and given the all clear by the vets, we spent a lot of time sitting in kennels, leaving tasty treats so he got used to one person and very gradually felt comfortable being approached.

Due to Jock’s sensitivity to grooming and his coat becoming matted, he had to be sedated and his coat fully clipped off. We were then able to desensitise him to grooming by using a baby brush, with some high value food and regular, short sessions as his hair grew back. We invested lots of time and work in developing a pattern to help introduce him to new people successfully. As his bond and trust grew over the months, we were able to do more and more with him without him yelping or becoming fearful and were able to demonstrate this to a new owner so they could see what he was able to achieve – once he had bonded well.

We needed multiple sessions to gradually introduce Jock to a new potential owner. They had to be very sensitive to Jock’s needs, take things very slowly and spend time developing a bond of trust. He is now a much happier and relaxed dog, who is having a wonderful life.

What would be your top 3 Blue Cross ‘Pet Anxiety Awareness Month’ tips for cat and dog owners?

Tasha (Blue Cross):

1) Be aware of any changes in your pet’s body language, routine or behaviour, make a note of what they are and when they started

2) If you are concerned, discuss these changes with your vet or a qualified behaviourist

3) Be informed about your pet, we have lots of interesting and useful advice on our pet advice pages on our website that you may find helpful, please visit www.bluecross.org.uk/pet-advice for more information.

Photos courtesy of Blue Cross.

Pet Anxiety Month Blog: Cats Protection

Wed, 18 Mar 2020 12:41:48 GMT

In this blog Charlotte Carr, Technical Behaviour Manager at Ceva Animal Health Ltd, manufactures of FELIWAY®, has a chat with Daniel Cummings, Behaviour Manager at Cats Protection. They discuss understanding cats behaviour better, recommendations to help owners with anxious cats, environmental requirements and recognising communication signals. Together with discussing how Cats Protection help cats feel comfortable and less stressed.

Charlotte (Ceva) : What could be the reason a cat is acting out of character?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

It could be medical conditions that cause change so first get the cat to a vet to check any underlying medical issues.

If there isn’t anything medical, the cat could be acting out of character due to change in the environment. For example trigger factors such as a new cat in the neighbourhood or home environment, building work, new baby or first baby. Specific triggers could be items or sounds such as fireworks / loud noises, that cause the cat to have a fear response, which then causes a change in behaviour.

Also, depending on previous experience, how well socialised the cat is and also their genetics (being naturally confident or worried), the cat could have a fear response but recover quicker. Without positive previous experience or socialisation, then a fear response will be shown initially and last a few days after. As long as the trigger persists then the cat will show similar fear responses.

Charlotte (Ceva) : Do you find that cat behaviour can be hard to read?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

My favourite topic! Understanding body language is fundamentally the most important thing we, as pet owners, can do. When comparing cats to dogs, dogs' emotions could be easier to read, but with cats, they still show their emotions but could be harder to read. However, we still should try to understand cat body language and their subtle ways of communicating.

Charlotte (Ceva): Are there any signals or signs that owners can look out for in cats that are stressed out?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

Hissing or swiping is a communication tool cats use, it could be misinterpreted for being confrontational or challenging the owner’s authority. When in fact the cat could be scared and trying to communicate this, to make their owner fully aware of their fear. When cats are scared of the specific situation, or find it challenging, they will show subtle body language cues. Pupil dilation is a good indicator that they are fearful (bear in mind low light impact, which can have a natural impact on pupils). Ears can be a good indicator of stress, up-right, side or back, (Daniel calls this aeroplane ears), are all indicators that the cat is feeling worried. Body posture and position, back legs stretched out and leaning away or back, not walking to you or walking away are all examples of when a cat can be fearful.

There are subtle signs owners can look out for, such as not eating, drinking and changed toilet habits. Also, hiding away or sleeping more than normal (cats sleep up to 16 hours a day but this is broken up with activity) or not having restful sleep, the cat having their eyes closed but ears are tuned into other sounds or focused on other things. Slightly more obvious behaviour to show stress is over-grooming, which is a huge welfare issue!

Charlotte (Ceva) : Thinking of what you do at Cats Protection and cat welfare importance, how do you make a cat's environment feel as comfortable as possible?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

For Cats Protection, cat welfare is hugely important. Although some cats may have nowhere else to go or are from a negative situation, being in a rescue centre isn’t an ideal place to be. The view is that their rescue is short term but rescue can be stressful for cats.

To make it less stressful, Cats Protection provides...

A Hide & Sleep® cat hide or an igloo style bed is provided for the cat to be able to hide away or get higher up if they are stressed. Creating a similar environment for the cat’s natural needs, as a natural prey species.

Use FELIWAY®, which can make a difference for their cats.

Correct resource placement including making sure the litter tray is appropriately positioned, food and drink are separate and away from the litter tray. At home, cat owners must try to space out resources as much as possible.

Creating a more private environment by restricting sight of other cats is achieved by frosted glass / opaque glass as cats are a naturally solitary species.

Cats are very scent orientated (humans are very sight orientated). Cats Protection uses a 2 bed system (cloth / textile / towel / material) so there is always one bed in a pen that has a cat's scent, when the other is being washed and a new one is being added, to maintain their scent profile.

The importance of making a cat’s environment and routine as predictable as possible to reduce anxiety or fear is really essential to cover during Pet Anxiety Month. An example of Cats Protection doing this is by restricting the number of handlers so the cat then gets familiar to certain people. Ideally restrict actual handling, so cats approach people for attention, otherwise if hiding don’t touch or approach if not needed. Let the cat hide away and give them space so the cat's safe space is kept safe.

A tip for owners to help their fearful cats is, restrict strong / high scents in the home such as air freshener, perfumes and strong scented sprays (cats are very sensitive to smell). As we don’t see the world through smell like cats, it's hard for us to understand how aversive it can be.

Charlotte (Ceva): What would you suggest to an owner to avoid cat anxiety?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

Make everything you do predictable, cats thrive on routine. Try to leave your cat alone if you have a fearful cat, try not to force your cat to be your friend. Ignore them and allow them to approach you first. This is the best way to actually become friends with your cat and help them feel more in control.

Charlotte (Ceva): What do you recommend for veterinary practices to ensure minimal stress to the cat during a vet visit?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

Become accredited to be a cat friendly practice. Think cat! Create a separate area for cats (to dogs), provide a table preferably beside each chair to place the cat up high, provide blankets for cat carriers and pre-spray with FELIWAY®. Or provide a clean towel pre-sprayed with FELIWAY® for owners to use. Vets can use FELIWAY® also during the consultation, but use FELIWAY® correctly i.e. use FELIWAY® spray 15 minutes before the animal enters the room and plug in FELIWAY® Diffuser in the waiting area.

During consultation get the cat on the vet table only if you need to, and be as efficient as possible (have a need to do - nice to do list). Have a discussion with the owner before the cat comes out. Only do 'need to do' things, you can do 'nice to do' things but only if the cat is ok. Do ‘hands off’ handling and avoid scruffing, now not recommended to vets during training.

Charlotte (Ceva): Do you have any suggestions for a new cat owner to make homing as smooth as possible?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

Be prepared! Whether the cat is from rescue or a breeder, set the home and cat carrier up in advance, not on the way home. Plug in FELIWAY® Diffuser beforehand, we say minimum 24 hours before.

Try to be aware that yes, it’s great the cat has a home but the process will be stressful still for the cat from pick-up, going in to the cat carrier, travelling, finally to the home environment.

Try to be anti-social for at least 72 hours, avoid having visitors, particularly if you have a fearful cat.

Importantly, be calm and get the cat to come into the environment by leaving them alone.

Help the cat learn the environment isn’t scary by providing enrichment toys and scatter food around the home even when the owner is not home. So the cat can learn to come out and interact with the environment and engage with toys / balls / feeders.

Let the cat become confident with the environment first, then the cat can get confident with people. Cats need to build up confidence!

Charlotte (Ceva) : Have you got an example of a positive homing story?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

Snowball’s story…

Snowball showed fearful behaviours in the rescue pen, such as hissing and swiping. The problem was the pen was too small and when a handler went over the threshold, Snowball reacted with a fearful response. We worked with Snowball in foster care and with their new owner to ensure the home environment was right, the number of visitors was restricted and introduced interacting with Snowball from a distance with fishing rod toys and enrichment feeders. Snowball was a completely different cat at home with the right environment, choosing to come up and engage themselves. Because the owner was willing to take on the advice given, take a step back, be patient and consistent, this helped Snowball and had a positive outcome.

Charlotte (Ceva): How does Cats Protection help the public understand cats' needs in order to improve welfare?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

As well as the Cats Protection behaviour conference to be held in September and general online content, we do have a free online training module, which can be found at www.cats.org.uk/online-learning called ‘ Understanding Cats Needs ’.

Charlotte (Ceva) : Pet Anxiety Month in March is all about raising awareness, what would be your top 3 tips to help owners?

Daniel (Cats Protection):

You can't always prepare for what your cat may find fearful but as long as we can appropriately read our cat's body language, we can adjust to all situations accordingly. Cats Protection has a fantastic series of cat behaviour videos available to watch online such as ‘ recognising stress in your cat ’, ‘ cat body language ’ and ‘ Why does my cat..? ’ .

Ensure the environment is set up properly and use FELIWAY® to create the most comforting optimum environment possible. Think you know everything there is to know about what makes the purrfect cat-friendly environment? Play the Cats Protection interactive house plan online game and find out if your water bowls, scratching posts and litter trays are all in the most suitable place for your cat in your home.

Give the cat a break and give yourself a break! Doing less will be better for the cat and don’t feel like you need to solve everything instantly, behaviour change takes time so don’t stretch yourself too much. Additional cat behaviour information can be found by clicking here .

10 Ways to help your dog chill out!

Thu, 12 Mar 2020 11:36:56 GMT

So, you’ve noticed that your dog is showing signs of anxiety and are thinking of things you can do to help. Here are some ideas for you to assist with your dog’s general mood to build on a solid, healthy and stress-free foundation.

1. Vet checks. Your Vet can make sure your dog isn’t poorly, in pain, and can advise you on all the parasite preventions, vaccinations, dental care and other health tips to ensure your dog is as fit as can be. Unsurprisingly, a poorly dog will show anxiety and stress!

2. Exercise. It’s not just humans that benefit from plenty of movement and fresh air. Dogs need to stay active as they enjoy sniffing, hunting around and meeting doggy friends. If your dog is anxious about other dogs, find walks and times of day where you can still get out and about.

3. Diet. Ensure that your dog gets good quality food, to maintain their general health, a good foundation for the stresses and strains that life can bring. Choose a diet that your dog enjoys, one that you can afford, and is easily available. Avoid giving titbits from your own plate - you can affect their health, cause obesity, and build harmful habits.

4. Training. Knowing how to behave in a wide variety of situations helps dogs to feel like life is predictably safe rather than unpredictable or chaotic. Using positive reward-based training methods, dogs can be taught to settle down calmly, turn to their owners for support, and turn away from all the things we would rather them not be doing! Seek out a qualified, reward-based trainer (listed on the Animal Training and Behaviour Council (ABTC) website as Animal Training Instructors).

5. Start young - as soon as you plan to get a puppy, ask your Vet about socialisation classes!

6. Design a chill-out space. Has your dog got a place they can go and rest or enjoy undisturbed? Some homes can be very busy, and dogs can find human comings and goings very stressful. Give them a safe haven, a cosy bed where nobody is allowed to disturb them.

7. Self-soothing tactics. Does your dog rely on you to entertain and settle them at all times? Find activities and toys that they can explore alone, such as those in which food can be tucked inside or licked off, or otherwise enjoyed without the need for a human to be present.

8. Routine. Most dogs enjoy knowing what the day will bring, so if you have to alter routines for example with a new baby, house move, or a holiday stay, prepare your dog gradually rather than throw them into the new situation.

9. Reassure your dog! Gone are the days when we were told to ignore our suffering anxious pooch. Stay calm yourself, and let your dog seek comfort with you.

10. Learn to understand your dog’s reactions. You and your dog are lifelong friends. They are there for part of your lifetime, but you are there for all of theirs.

Can I do more for my anxious dog?

Thu, 12 Mar 2020 11:34:11 GMT

Is your dog anxious, stressed and fearful? It might be linked to specific situations (fireworks, unfamiliar situations, life changes and so on). You may have noticed specific body signals (see our article HERE) and would like to help your dog to become more relaxed. The good news is, there are plenty of things you can do to help.

Veterinary support

A Veterinary check should be your first port of call. It’s common for behavioural issues to stem from an undiagnosed illness or pain-related problems. We all know how short-tempered we can feel when we are even slightly unwell! Even though your pet may look fine, a medical professional will at least rule out these causes, and/or enable treatment. Your Vet can recommend medical interventions, and can also refer you to a registered clinical animal behaviourist.

Become a behaviour ‘detective’

It’s helpful to sit and make a list. What events seem to cause anxiety? Are there social causes, such as meeting other dogs, or certain types of people (for example, young children). Check the environment for specifics too. These may be obvious, such as firework noise, or planes flying overhead. Less noticeable signs (to us humans) could be scent-related, for example of other animals nearby, or of an unusual or strong aroma such as cigarette smoke or vehicle fumes. It’s likely that there are multiple factors involved too, for example, if your dog has a history of similar behaviours that have perhaps worsened, or you may have more than one pet in the home and their interactions are not helping!

What can I do?

Seeking professional help is a great option, but you can take steps to help your dog in the meantime. Of course, avoid problem situations in the short term, because constantly exposing your dog to sources of stress can escalate their reactions and create further problems. In the longer term, you can gradually increase contact with problem situations but this must be planned carefully.

Providing a safe, quiet space to which they can retreat is a must. This isn’t a place to shut them in, but rather somewhere where your dog can choose when they need to feel secure. Some dogs enjoy an ‘open door’ crate as a haven. Provide comfy bedding and soundproof the floor and sides if you can - old blankets are ideal for this purpose. You may want to drape a lightweight cover over the top for added feelings of safety, but see what your dog seems to prefer.

Redirecting your dog onto fun activities can help, as their mood will become more positive. Toys, games in which your dog searches for hidden treats, training easy tricks, or just simple reassurance and cuddles can all help. Yes, contrary to old-fashioned advice, letting your dog seek comfort with you is absolutely fine.

The missed signals - How do I know my dog is anxious or stressed?

Thu, 12 Mar 2020 11:32:20 GMT

Dogs are such a big part of our lives that it can be hard to accept that sometimes, we don’t understand them. We know that dogs experience emotions, just like we do, and can form strong bonds with us too. What visual signals do they give? Let’s form a clearer picture of what they are feeling or communicating, especially when they are anxious or stressed.

Tails or Heads?

It’s common to assume that a dog’s wagging tail means that all is well. However, dogs will wag their tails when they are upset or agitated too, so using this as a barometer of a dog’s mood can be misleading. Look for where the tail is carried - is it high and tight, over the dog’s back? This could be that the dog is on high alert. Is the tail low and tucked underneath? It might still be wagging, but the dog isn’t feeling confident, and could be trying to appeal for a little less overwhelming situation. Or are you seeing the tail swishing from side to side? The dog could be showing a relaxed interest. Some dogs naturally have a high, curled tail which can be deceptive and harder to read. Most of all, we must consider the other body signals.

At the other end of the dog, their head movements are more telling. A lowered head or crouch can be a sign that the dog is avoiding a situation, especially if the dog is responding to a hand reaching out to pet them.

Dogs often try to turn away if they feel stressed or overwhelmed. If they move away, or throw themselves onto their backs, it’s time to stop what you are doing and give them some space. Stiffness of movement, freezing, pacing and panting can all be signs of stress, but there are more subtle signs too.

The eyes have it

Eyes are said to be windows to the soul, and the same applies to dogs. A dog that knows and trusts you will look at you to read what you are feeling. Dogs have been shown to scan our faces for reactions, even when the face is upside down (imagine times when your dog is having a belly rub, gazing up at you, for example). If the dog is avoiding eye contact, they are probably feeling pressured. It’s quite threatening to stare at a dog, so ignore old-fashioned advice to use this as some kind of control tactic. Hard staring is a sign that all is not well.

Ears and mouth

A happy, open, panting dog’s mouth makes everyone feel good, but a worried dog will have a tense, tightly closed mouth. If you see the dog lift a lip in a snarl, this is an extreme sign of stress, but it has been shown that young children can misinterpret it as ‘smiling’.

Ears can be floppy, pricked up, with the tips curled over, or a combination of these. Learning what your dog’s ear movements mean is fascinating. When they are focused on something, perhaps ready to chase or bark, the ears rotate and point forward, sometimes one at a time! If ears are pulled tightly back, the dog could be anticipating problems or feeling uncertain and anxious.

Above all, learn to look at the whole dog so that you can identify times where they might be feeling stressed and anxious, and need your support. And don’t forget to ask your Vet to check your dog over to make sure they are not unwell. Your Vet can also refer you to a qualified, registered clinical animal behaviourist for further help.

The missed signals - How do I know my cat is anxious or stressed?

Thu, 12 Mar 2020 11:30:54 GMT

Do you think that cats are always ‘just fine’? Maybe you wonder if cats are ‘only playing’ when they are bowling each other over and hissing? Do you think a neighbouring cat staring into the window would be a problem?

Cats are fascinating and appear to be very self-reliant pets. At other times, they can seek a great deal of attention and affection, but then take themselves off for a groom and a nap. It’s well known that a cat will not hesitate to swipe, scratch or grab a hand from which moments ago they were inviting petting.

Even though we have lived alongside cats for thousands of years, it’s still common for us humans to misunderstand what our cats are trying to communicate. Cats do have facial expression, but it’s been shown that few humans can interpret them accurately.

Rather than waiting for your cat to become very unhappy, with obvious signs such as hissing, growling, scratching, biting and yowling, there are always early signs of stress and anxiety that you can look out for.

An upset cat can freeze or move very slowly. To an untrained eye, the cat may simply be still, but they could be crouching with their head lowered and tail held closely to the body rather than relaxed. You may see the tail tip swish. The cat’s ears may simply be held slightly back, but when very upset the cat’s ears are fully flattened on the back of their head. Those beautiful long whiskers will also be pulled back.

A cat’s eyes are filled with expression, so staring eyes, fully open, with dilated pupils, are another sign that all is not well.

Of course, a cat can always move away from a situation, so, allow your cat to choose their comfort zone, but don’t be surprised to learn that an unhappy cat can stay put. They may perhaps be pointing slightly away from the target of their discomfort, but are certainly not relaxed.

Cats that aren’t able to escape a challenging situation can become chronically stressed. These are far more tricky signs to spot, usually because we have accepted them as the normal way our cats behave. Toileting problems such as urinating (either squatting or spraying on vertical surfaces), and/or defecation away from their normal litter box is a clear sign of problems. This can lead to related issues such as urinary tract infections and the interplay between such illness and stress needs investigating closely.

Over-grooming, where bald patches appear, can be due to medical issues and must be thoroughly checked, but again, is a symptom of a cat attempting to self-soothe or habitually try to cope with ongoing anxiety.

A cat that no longer plays, hides a great deal, or appears to sleep constantly (even more than usual) is another warning signal of stress.

Overt signs - aggression, towards people or other cats, are commonly misunderstood as ‘rough play’ but must be heeded. Happily, help is at hand. Your Vet will give your cat a health check, so don’t delay, and seek referral to a clinical animal behaviourist who can give you, and your cat, the right directions for a calmer and happier future. See www.fabclinicians.org for a list of help in your area.

10 ways to help your cat relax

Thu, 12 Mar 2020 11:24:32 GMT

These are mostly practical considerations but can also include options for treatment, again empowering owners to do more for their cat

1. Good health. It’s not obvious because cats hide symptoms well, but cats become more grumpy, overgroom themselves or toilet in the wrong places when they are poorly. Make sure your cat is on a quality diet, and that they are regularly wormed and treated for fleas and other parasites.

2. Environment. Cats as a species are very focused on their environment, including establishing territory and being able to hunt and climb. If kept indoors, we must provide spaces for the cat to hide, investigate, and establish as their own. Cat trees, cardboard boxes, high spaces for them to clamber up to and of course, places where they can rest undisturbed will all promote a calmer cat.

3. Nice neighbours? Another cat staring in through your windows, peering down from trees or fence tops as your cat tries to go about their day, can be extremely stressful. Your cat might start to avoid going out, start toileting inside or worst of all, may come back with scabs and scars. Provide shelter for your cat around exit points such as cat flaps, such as plant pots so they can hide and move around without being glared at. Screen windows using cover such as paper or window frosting spray to help reduce eye contact.

4. Family ties. Cats are often good at surviving without much social contact and do not need other cats in their own home for them to feel happy. Overpopulation within a home can be very stressful for a cat, so think carefully before adding another cat to your family.

5. Routines are enjoyable. Cats find routine reassuring. They like to know where they can go, how to move around their own home, where to sleep unbothered and who they are likely to meet. Aim to have a steady routine for your cat so that they feel happy and calm and can predict that life is not going to change drastically from moment to moment.

6. Plenty of resources. Providing your cat, or cats, with a choice of food and water bowls, beds, litter trays, scratching posts and always having at least one item per cat plus one means your cats can stay calm and happy without fear of competition.

7. Learn the signs of anxiety. See our article for signs that your cat may be stressed and anxious.

8. Know your cat. If you know that your cat has always avoided being petted, don’t force it. Let your cat come to you when they’d like a fuss and be respectful of their routines. Let sleeping cats lie!

9. Other pets. Dogs, rabbits, gerbils, chickens… we do love our pets! We can’t escape the instincts of other species any more than we can ask our cat not to dip their paws into the fish tank. Take care to learn their needs, and don’t allow one to predate on the other. Your dog must be trained not to chase your cat, and your cat needs to be kept safely away from any pets they might otherwise hurt, for a harmonious home.

10. Seek help soon. If there’s a problem, no matter how minor, seek assistance from your Vet. They can check for illness or refer your beloved cat to a clinical animal behaviourist for help (see fabclinians.org )

Cat Spraying

Thu, 27 Feb 2020 13:35:11 GMT

Is your cat spraying?

Why does a cat spray?

Spraying is perhaps the most misunderstood cat behavior, often confused with urinating.

Spraying cats emit a foul smelling spray for territorial and calming reasons. The strong smell or even just performing the act and reduce stress or comfort your cat. The cat will usually choose vertical places to spray, have their backside raised & quiver their tail. Urine spraying is an indication that a kitten is now an adult.

Who will spray?

Both males and females can spray, even after neutering or spaying. Entire female cats sometimes spray to highlight their territory and to tell males they’re available. Males are available at all times and spray to leave urine marks as a territorial behavior, but this is also a sign of his availability to nearby females. Can be in combination with meowing and yowling, calling to available female cats in the area.

Kittens begin spraying urine usually when they hit reproductive maturity. This stage varies, but ranges from around 4 months to over a year. Neutering or spaying a cat before reaching maturity can help prevent spraying, male cats usually mature physically between 4 to 5 months. Most cats begin spraying around 6 to 7 months of age, but if the cat is neutered before it ever sprays, it very likely will never begin spraying at all or develop a habit.

It is still possible for cats to spray after they’ve been neutered. Therefore it is best to train your cat before they start spraying and create a positive reassuring environment to comfort your cat so they can cope through all the changes in your life together.

What to do if you cat is spraying

If your cat is already spraying, they are most probably uncomfortable and there is a stressor causing this. Help by removing whatever they have perceived as a threat or whatever is making them uncomfortable and stressed. Try and work out what may have changed in their environment most recently e.g. a new sofa

Cats usually spray in response to anything that is making them stressed or they think of as a threat, can be anything from decorating the house, to a new animal around or a guest.

Clean all cat marks With warm water and soap (enzymatic wash) or alcohol Let the area dry, do not use bleach! Using ammonia-based or bleach cleaners will attract your cat to spray again. You should see an improvement within the first week and continue to use for at least one month.

Adhere to the litter box guidelines :

● One per cat plus 1 more
● Easy to access
● Locate away from food and water
● Always clean: Scooped daily and cleaned weekly.

Remove any stressful changes in their environment - changes in your cat’s environment Any unavoidable new environmental changes should involve slow introductions and keep your cats routine as normal as possible. Feliway Classic should be used to mark the environment as safe and secure when any changes are being made.

Health Problems

Get your cat checked at the vet for any underlying health problems. Especially if the spraying perseveres despite being neutered and environmental issues addressed.

Other things to look at:

● Look for litter box-related issues as your cat may be avoiding their litter box for a reason. Try adding another litter box or changing the location of the litter box or the litter you use.
● If a multicat household, ensure there are enough litter boxes so that each cat has one without conflict or competition for it.
● Blot the urine spray right away with a clean towel to soak up as much urine as possible, reducing the possibility of the pee soaking in. Use a cloth or towel that you can either immediately wash or throw away. If the spray is dry or on carpet, pour a cup of slightly warm water and wipe up with towels before adding cleaning products. Blot the stain and do not rub, as this would cause the stain to set or soak in.

If your cat has anxiety

Thu, 27 Feb 2020 10:16:17 GMT

Advice from Rosie Bescoby, a Clinical Animal Behaviourist with a degree in Psychology and Zoology and a Post-Graduate Diploma in Companion Animal Behaviour Counselling

It is estimated that as many as 50% of domestic cats experience an emotional disorder, and although it is unclear how many are related specifically to anxiety, it is inevitable that anxiety will be a component in a large proportion of cases. Anxiety can be defined as anticipation of a negative event which may or may not be real. It is closely linked with fear, which is experienced when an individual is confronted with a perceived threat. Anxiety, therefore, lacks a specific triggering event. For example, a human might experience a fear response when confronted with a spider in a box. If the same person was told that there was a spider loose in the room but it is unknown where it is or when it might appear, that negative anticipatory state would be anxiety. Anxiety may be situational (i.e. in a certain context something negative might occur), or generalised (a fairly persistent state of chronic anxiety).

What causes anxiety?

• Genetics will always underlie the potential for a cat to experience anxiety, so breeding from temperamentally robust cats reduces the likelihood of the offspring exhibiting anxiety.
• The environment in which kittens are reared between 2 to 7 weeks of age has an important role in reducing the potential for anxiety developing. During this ‘socialisation period’, kittens learn what aspects of their environment are normal and safe, so everything they experience during this period is likely to be accepted when encountered later in life. Equally, anything that they do not come across during this period is much more likely to produce a fear response after seven weeks of age. The greater the variety of positive experie nces they have during this time, the more likely they are to cope with novel experiences in the future.
• Cats are territorial animals and have complex social interactions. Well-socialised cats may form bonds with other co-habiting cats, but living with another cat is not essential for their emotional wellbeing. Indeed, uncontrolled introduction or access to other cats (both co-habiting and in the neighbourhood) can lead to anticipation of negative interactions. Equally, cats may be anxious of unwanted or unpleasant interactions from other pets, humans, or exposure to noises or scary stimuli (e.g. hoover).
• Human responses to cat behaviour can induce anxiety. Using aversives (something the cat finds unpleasant) such as water sprays or shouting in an attempt to reduce unwanted behaviour will cause the cat to anticipate negative outcomes, and this anxiety will become generalised if the punishment is unpredictable from the cat’s perspective. Attempts to befriend or handle a cat without their consent will also induce an anxious state.
• Predictability and control over the environment will reduce anxiety. Conversely, changes in routine such as moving house, ceasing outdoor access, changes in the human or animal dimension of the family, human parties, Christmas, veterinary visits, travel, visitors, or even a sudden change in food can induce anxiety.
• Cats use scent and chemical communication to reassure themselves and to feel safe and secure in their territory. Redecoration, renovation or introducing new furniture to the home will bring unfamiliar scent profiles into the cat’s core territory and this may induce anxiety and perception of threat.
• Pain, discomfort or illness will increase anxiety due to both anticipation of pain (for example, a cat suffering from arthritis may anticipate pain when climbing into its littertray, leading to urination in other areas of the home) and lowering thresholds for coping with additional stressors (we’re all less tolerant of daily challenges if we are suffering physically). Physiological symptoms of anxiety include an increased heart and respiration rate, trembling, gastrointestinal tract upset and idiopathic cystitis.

Coping strategies such as inappropriate urination, urine spraying and marking, overgrooming or lack of grooming and self-care, excessive vocalisation, changes in eating or sleeping patterns, scratching in new locations or increased frequency, aggression, hiding, social withdrawal including lack of play, and escaping or agoraphobia are all potentially symptoms of anxiety. Freezing, flattening, skulking, sudden grooming, dilated pupils, and staring are all body language signs associated with anxiety.

Preventing anxiety and helping anxious cats

Hiding and high perches

The cat’s core territory should enable and encourage hiding. Hiding places at both ground-level and elevated levels can be provided. Domestic cats are classed as both a predator and a prey species, and they naturally climb for observation and safety. High hiding places enable cats to better survey the environment for potential intruders and other threats. Access should be unrestricted to resting areas where loud noises, dogs, other cats in the household, outdoor cats approaching the windows, and pursuit by small children are minimized.

Pheromone therapy

Cats release pheromones during facial rubbing when they feel comfortable in their environment. Studies show that this pheromone reduces anxiety. Feliway Classic can be used either as a plug-in diffuser or as a spray (for travel or vet visits, for example) to increase perception of safety and relaxation.

Predictable routine & interactions

An environment that ensures a reasonable level of consistency and predictability over which the cat perceives it has control will reduce potential for anxiety. Whenever a change in a resource (e.g. food, litter) is planned, offering the new resource adjacent to the existing resource allows the cat choice. Imposing unfamiliar, undesirable resources on a cat may create an additional stressor in the cat’s environment.

Multi-cat households

Cats avoid meeting unfamiliar cats where possible by keeping to a sort of time schedule and using chemical communication. A group of cats living together may or may not be classed as the same social group. Cats within the same social group will rest in physical contact and groom/rub each other. Owners of multi-cat households need to provide enough space to allow each cat to keep a social distance of 1 to 3 meters and it is important to provide multiple resting places and resources to avoid competition so cats can co-exist without being forced into close contact. For example, feeding from separate locations placed out of sight of each other, and providing a littertray for each cat plus one additional box, all in separate locations. Signs of conflict between cats can be overt or silent. Signs of overt conflict include stalking, hissing, raised fur (piloerection), swatting and fighting. Silent conflict may involve the threatened cat spending more time away from the family or attempts to interact with family members only when the assertive cat is not present. Feliway Friends is the cat appeasing pheromone that can be useful when introducing a new cat into the home and to encourage harmony within the multi-cat home.

Interaction with or exposure to other animals and humans

Other animals that coexist in the cat’s environment may be perceived as predators (e.g. dogs). The cat should be able to control whether to approach and how long to maintain contact with any predator species, as well as with humans (both familiar and unfamiliar). Some cats may prefer to be stroked whereas others may prefer play interactions with owners. It is important to avoid any punishment in attempting to reduce unwanted behaviour, as this will simply increase anxiety.

Play

Appropriate outlets for play behaviour are essential for reducing anxiety and should incorporate the natural predatory sequence of stalking, chasing, pouncing and biting. Examples of appropriate toys include wand toys, battery-operated toys, balls inside a box, catnip-filled toys, and laser pointer games (that must always end with a successful catch). Toys should be rotated every few days to maintain novelty and interest. In addition, feeding from bowls removes any opportunity for cats to express their natural predatory instincts. Offering food in puzzle toys specifically designed to release dry food when physically manipulated by cats, or stuffing hollow food toys with wet food require cats to work to remove the contents.

Reducing other potential for stress in the environment

Locating littertrays in quiet areas protected from interruption by people/other animals and away from household appliances that may begin operating suddenly will reduce potential for anxiety associated with toileting behaviour. Some cats may prefer the privacy of covered littertrays, but they can trap odours and prevent cats from having a safe vantage point for the approach of other animals during elimination. Littertrays should also be located away from food and water locations. Cats generally prefer fine, clumping litter that should be scooped daily and emptied weekly, with the tray being washed with fairy liquid and water. Other scenting products and liners should be avoided. An enriched environment allows cats to express their natural behaviours, including scratching and chewing. Scratching behaviour maintains claw health and is a form of visual and pheromonal marking. Cats tend to scratch more often when stretching after periods of rest or sleep. Therefore, scratching posts should be placed in proximity to preferred resting places. Undesirable chewing can be avoided by offering a variety of cat-safe plants and grasses such as catnip, catmint, valerian, chamomile, calendula, Echinacea, licorice root, cat’s claw, dandelion root, goldenseal, wheat grass, oat grass and rye grass .

Referral

Your vet should always be the first port of call with regards any behavioural problem. They will consider potential medical differentials and you can request referral to a Clinical Animal Behaviourist (see The Animal Behaviour and Training Council www.abtcouncil.org.uk). Depending on the specific problem, some behaviourists may be able to help via a phone consultation. Alternatively, face-to-face consults allow the clinician to gather information in the cat’s own environment.

If your dog has anxiety

Thu, 27 Feb 2020 10:06:54 GMT

Advice from Rosie Bescoby, a Clinical Animal Behaviourist with a degree in Psychology and Zoology and a Post-Graduate Diploma in Companion Animal Behaviour Counselling

Behavioural problems related to anxiety are common in the domestic dog (it is thought that almost 50% of the UK dog population suffer from ‘separation anxiety’ alone).

Pet insurance companies reported that in 2019, behavioural claims increased by up to 50% on 2018 claims – underlying anxiety will undoubtedly have been a common component in many of these cases.

Anxiety is induced by anticipation of a negative event that may or may not occur, where fear is defined as the behavioural response shown to actual danger. Imagine being scared of spiders. Someone shows you a box with a huge spider in it - you experience a fear response. If someone told you that within a certain room, or at a certain time of day, a huge spider might appear, you would experience situational anxiety in that room or around that time. However, if someone told you that a huge spider could suddenly appear at any time or any place, you are likely to experience generalised anxiety which can lead to chronic stress.

Examples of common scenarios where dogs exhibit situational anxiety include waiting in the veterinary reception area (anticipating a negative/painful event occurring when the vet sees them), when the clocks change and the nights draw in (anticipating previous fear-inducing firework noises), on a walk (anticipating a scary dog round the next corner), or when left at home alone (anticipating another burglary attempt). A dog who is unable to control or predict when they might be exposed to something unpleasant or painful is likely to be in a near constant state of generalised anxiety.

BODY LANGUAGE

Body language that may indicate an anxious state includes lip licking (anxiety can inhibit salivation, or conversely can lead to excessive salivation – sounds contradictory because it is, but it’s related to complex hormonal/neurotransmitter responses!)
Yawning (often used to communicate a feeling of uneasiness or to calm themselves back down after a negative experience)
Licking at themselves or others
Social withdrawal or increased sleep
Avoidance of situations
Tail position lowered
Lowered body posture
A front paw raised, flattened or pulled back ears
Dilated pupils
Panting (not due to physical exercise or heat)
Hypervigilance
Trembling
Excessive shedding of hair or dandruff
Sweaty paws
Pacing, hiding, or attempts to hide such as digging

HOW CAN WE REDUCE THE RISK OF ANXIETY DEVELOPING?

Multiple factors influence the development of behaviours associated with anxiety in dogs:

• Genetics:
It is important that breeders select temperamentally robust dogs to prevent the potential for anxious dispositions to be inherited.
• Maternal stress & the neonatal period:
Studies show that stress experienced during pregnancy negatively affects stress reactivity in offspring. Therefore, attempts should be made to ensure the mum’s environment and her experiences during pregnancy are as stress-free as possible. Providing neonatal (3-6 day old) puppies with a stimulating environment and mild stressors (in the form of handling) have been shown to promote resilience when older (the capacity to recover quickly and adapt after a difficult event).
• Personality types:
Individuals can be shy or bold or anything in between. These varying personality types also have different coping strategies. ‘Proactive’ individuals express obvious behavioural signs that might not be desirable from the owner’s perspective, but they are actually beneficial in terms of the dog’s ability to manage stressful situations and reduce the risk of emotional disorders. Other dogs may appear less overtly anxious because their coping strategy is more passive, but they are actually experiencing the same underlying negative emotion as individuals who express outward symptoms. Anxiety is also linked to pessimism (expecting the worst).
• Weaning:
In natural environments, the process of weaning is gradual with puppies becoming increasingly more emotionally and nutritionally independent. Under human control, the mum is often removed suddenly from her puppies which can cause distress that can last for several weeks. Conversely, repeated, short periods of separation from the mum increases the puppies’ resilience to stressful events later in life.
• Socialisation period:
Breeders have an important role in terms of introducing puppies to potential stressors. Between 3-12 weeks of age, puppies learn what aspects of their environment are normal and safe, so everything they experience during this ‘socialisation period’ is likely to be accepted when encountered later in life. Equally, anything that they do not come across during this period is much more likely to produce a fear response after twelve weeks of age. The greater the variety of positive experiences they have during this window, the more likely they are to cope with new experiences in the future. However, the sensitivity of the young puppy’s brain means that exposure to a scary or overwhelming situation during this period may have long-term negative effects. Exposure to potential stressors that gradually increase in intensity and duration has positive effects on emotional reactivity and problem solving. Studies have produced mixed results regarding the potential benefits of puppy socialisation classes on later behaviour. Training methods used in classes are variable and the extent to which they may contribute to reducing potential anxiety will depend on the setup and attentiveness to each individual puppy’s behavioural responses. Play and relaxed social interactions provide ideal contexts for puppies to encounter novel situations and learn that they are not threatening. Adaptil Junior (a synthetic version of the pheromone that the mum produces when she is lactating her puppies) will help puppies feel calmer and safer when encountering new experiences.
• Training methods & relationship with owner:
Interactions between dogs and owners may affect numerous aspects of social behaviour. Research has shown that dog owners who shared more activities with their dogs were less likely to categorize them as “nervous”. Responding appropriately to our dogs when they are exposed to a stress-inducing event can induce a calming effect. One study showed that 20 minutes of gentle stroking inhibited the immediate increase of cortisol (the stress hormone) when dogs were given an injection. Historically, advice consisted of ignoring your dog if they exhibited fear or anxiety because it was believed there was a risk of reinforcing these emotional states. However, you cannot reinforce emotions. Coping strategies and the behavioural response may have the potential to be reinforced. Some human interaction can be detrimental and increase the likelihood of fear and anxiety developing. Punishment-based training methods are likely to increase levels of fear and anxiety and lead to negative associations with other environmental stimuli. Tension in the lead will contribute to the dog feeling more restrained, with fewer behavioural options. It will also cause the dog to tense as they brace themselves against the pressure from the lead (known as the opposition reflex). Instead, providing the dog with the choice of whether to approach or retreat to a safe distance from which to observe enables them to feel greater control and reduces the likelihood of a dog experiencing fear and anxiety.

TREATMENT OF ANXIETY

There is a link between generalised anxiety and skin conditions (cortisol, the stress hormone, makes skin more sensitive and reactive; itchy skin then increases a negative emotional state and the cycle continues), digestive problems (there’s loads of interesting research on the gut-brain link), and pain-related conditions. Anxious individuals tend to have tension throughout their body which will impact on chronic pain, and anticipation of pain creates anxiety. Consequently, a full veterinary workup should always be the first step to ensure there is no underlying physical conditions contributing to the anxiety. Referral to a qualified behaviourist (see The Animal Behaviour and Training Council ) is recommended for any dog who exhibits fearful responses and/or generalised anxiety due to potential welfare implications. These conditions are likely to continue to exacerbate overtime, so seeking professional advice as quickly as possible is recommended for best chance of improving the dog’s quality of life.

To best prepare dogs for a range of situations and activities, gradual adaptation from initially predictable routines to more variable schedules will create an expectation of the unexpected, leading dogs to cope better with unpredictable scenarios when they occur. Exercises to increase confidence and build resilience (recovery after mildly difficult events), as well as encouraging relaxation in specific situations (using scentwork, chews, and items to lick at), will reduce underlying anxiety. Adaptil can be provided as a plug-in diffuser for situational anxiety in the home, or as a spray for anxiety related to travel or the vets, and as a collar for more generalised anxiety. Neutraceuticals or herbal supplements may also help reduce general anxiety levels. Ensuring the dog feels safe (controlling exposure to fear-inducing events) and then altering any fearful responses (by exposing the dog to the scary thing in dilute form and associating it with something the dog loves) will automatically reduce corresponding anxiety. The behaviourist may need to liaise with the referring vet regarding psychoactive medication in cases where the dog is causing injury to itself (e.g. compulsive behaviours) or where exposure to potential triggers cannot be controlled.

Puppy Home Alone

Fri, 14 Feb 2020 10:20:43 GMT

Does your puppy get anxious home alone?

Dogs are social animals so when it comes to being alone for long periods it can be challenging for them. There are a few things you can do to help them learn that being alone isn't so bad.

What to provide:

1) A comfortable place where your puppy can stay alone safely. Use a crate big enough for a sleeping area and a toileting area or make a pen or just a puppy-proofed room e.g. a utility room. You want to make sure there are no wires that can be chews or any other item you would not want to be ruined. They will need an area to move around in, access to water and toys.

2) Distractions to keep them occupied are ideal. Provide food-stuffed toys or kongs filled with frozen liquid food (yogurt, chicken stock, mashed banana, dog-safe peanut butter etc.) to encourage licking behaviour as this is self-soothing.

3) Leave the radio or TV which will keep them company and also cover up any outside noises they may bark at.

4) Departure and homecoming: Initial daytime departures should be when your puppy is tired and likely to sleep (they sleep a lot so this is easier). When you return, wait until your puppy is calm before interacting with them. Do not ignore them if they are distressed. If persistent then try a simple command followed by a treat to calm them down. It is better not to make a big deal about your return. Make sure all 4 paws are on the floor when you reward them.

5) Simple cue is an option to help your dog understand that you are going out. For example a wave and ‘bye’ or an index finger and ‘i’ll be 1 minute’. If you want to find out what your dog is getting up to or how they are coping when alone then consider asking neighbours to keep an ear out if they are around.

Another option would be setting up a doggy camera so you can monitor. You might find out that something in particular sets your dog off when you are not there, for example post through the door. If you do find any destruction when you return then just ignore it, it isn’t personal and they’ve only destroyed it because they were so stressed that they reached the point that they had to express it. Never tell them off as this will just increase their stress and make things worse.

You can help train your dog to be alone by starting small, even in a separate room and keep out of sight for a short while. Weh you are confident they are quiet return and provide a treat. Build this up so you are out of sight for longer periods and reward if they are calm, haven’t made any mess/destruction and haven’t barked. If they do bark or whine then do not return to them. Until they are quiet. If you reward the wrong moment, they will learn that if I bark or whine, then you will return, which is what they want and therefore will do it again.

Remember that every dog is different and for difficult cases it is recommended to speak to a qualified dog behaviourist and speak with your vet.

Puppy and Loud Noises

Fri, 14 Feb 2020 10:16:48 GMT

Is your puppy scared of loud noises?

You want to train your puppy to accept unusual noises and other “scary” things.

You want to begin this slowly, you can desensitise them to accept noises. If your puppy is surrounded by a busy noisy environment, distract them with toys and reward good and calm behaviour.

For outside noises like fireworks or thunderstorms you can try and get them used to the noises as long as it is well away from the busy firework period. Using a programme to do this is ideal, it is available as a free resource from the Dogs Trust you can also purchase as a CD. Make sure you introduce this gradually.

Exposing your dog to sounds of fireworks, rain, gunshots, thunder and much more to quickly could build up a fear.

Start super quiet, at the volume they can barely hear. Day after day, increase the volume gradually and stop increasing the volume if they seem to react badly to it. Reward your dog when they respond well. This process can take quite a long time, so it is better to do it long before or after the firework season.

If there is a sudden episode of thunder or fireworks help mask the noise by closing curtains and turning the TV/radio on and distract them with treats and toys. We have more tips for fireworks night here .

Crying at Night

Wed, 12 Feb 2020 15:19:45 GMT

Crying at Night

Create a “puppy bedroom” Choose a warm and comfortable sleeping space for your puppy with a bed and/or a blanket. It can also be beneficial to place something that smells of you like an old t-shirt in their bed to provide additional comfort.

The transition throughout this period can be a long process and may take time for your dog to stop crying and become quieter and therefore will need a lot of your patience. If there is still whining when left alone, start to time the duration of the time they are crying, then you can monitor and note how long they take to quiet down. Keeping track of progress is beneficial to see if things are improving over time.

Preparing for bedtime:

1) Give them dinner early, ideally 3 hours before bedtime, this will help them not to need the loo overnight. Limit food and water, do not give them any an hour before bedtime. Going to bed with a full stomach and bladder means you'll likely be taking your pup out more than once during the night to let them out.
2) If you are early to bed and late to rise, you'll have to make at least one midnight trip to keep them from going to the bathroom inside, but as your puppy gets older and gets used to the toilet training this will become less frequent.
3) Provide active play and a walk is possible, 2 hours before bedtime - this will help tire them out. Make sure your puppy is getting lots of physical and mental exercise, especially if your puppy is a particularly active breed and as your puppy gets older.
4) Try not to be too excitable to help calm them down. Wait until they are naturally sleepy before leaving them, puppies sleep a lot so this should be easy.

What NOT to do:

-If your puppy cries, wait to see if they settle down before going straight to see them. If you go to see them every time they cry, they will learn that their crying will achieve this.
-Start as you mean to go on, if you want them to sleep in a separate room then avoid letting them sleep in your room at all...they don't know what they have never had.
-Never use your puppy’s bed as a punishment, this could create stress at bedtime. If your puppy seems extremely stressed, they may not like their crate, being alone and away from you, the room, or a room separate from you. You could provide a puppy pen or area near your bed/bedroom. This can make your puppy feel more comfortable and less stressed as they are closer to you throughout this adjustment process. However, if your dog is sleeping in the same room as you, the transition to being a quiet pup that doesn’t bark when left alone can be a longer one. You will have to work on this and be patient. If your puppy cries, wait to see if he settles instead of coming to pet him. Otherwise your puppy could learn the wrong lesson that crying will get him cuddles! If you want them to sleep in separate rooms then avoid letting them sleep in your room, otherwise they will ask for it again.

Nervous of Visitors

Wed, 12 Feb 2020 15:19:44 GMT

Is your dog nervous of visitors?

If your dog is nervous of visitors, then it's almost understandable, it's their home and they didn't invite a complete stranger to come into their home. Guests are a break in the dog’s daily routine and therefore are very exciting or scary. Depending on your dog’s temperament, the guests might be perceived as trespassers. For some cases it is not always a simple fix, especially if your dog has reacted in a certain way for a long time. It is advisable the advice of a vet or qualified behaviourist to help you put a plan into place to ensure you are reacting and rewarding in the right way. The earlier you can tackle this, the better.

What you can do:

● When visitors are over it’s important to teach your dog what you want them to do. Give your dog clear instructions and remember how you want them to act in the situation e.g. no jumping up. Short-term you can use a barrier or gate that will separate your dog from the front door. This won’t replace training, but it will help while you’re working on this behavior.
● Leave a sign outside and a pot of treats for visitors to give your dogs when they come in, if safe to do so. Your dog could soon learn that visitors arriving is a great thing, as I get rewards! Tell all guests this before they arrive and after a few minutes or after a while if your dog is still being calm and relaxed then you can allow your visitors to throw your dog treats.
● Ask guests to ignore your dog completely, this includes no petting, talking, looking at or treats. Your dog can get fearful if the visitors come straight in and to them. Ask your visitor to only interact with your dog when your dog has gone to them or when you are all sitting down after a while and the dog looks calm. Do not allow your visitors to follow or pursue your dog, if your dog is trying to get away or hide or in their safe haven.
● Don’t force your nervous dog to stay too close to the source of fear and do NOT punish your dog if they barks or shakes, this will only make your dog more distressed. Mild and positive exposure is best, your dog will then learn over time that there is nothing to be afraid of.
● Go slowly when exposing them: first approach the fearful thing from a good distance. Reward when they remain calm and DO NOT force them to continue if unhappy. Over time move closer continuing with all the rewards when behaving well. The goal is to have your dog in a relaxed position when visitors arrive and to enjoy the visit. Therefore, you want to teach your dog that they should stay calm and give interactive relaxed behaviours with your visitors to get rewards. Use your dog's bed or safe haven as a comfortable place that your dog associates with wonderful things and use this as a training tool.

Providing distractions or things that are more interesting such as puzzle toys, stuffed or frozen kongs filled with high-value treats like chicken or peanut butter (dog-friendly) is a long-lasting option. Begin to practice this in different scenarios; especially at the front door or in distracting situations. Recruit someone else to help, a family member, friend, or neighbour to help you. Always have yummy treats in your pocket and provide them to your dog whenever they are relaxed or calm. Ask your helper to ignore your dog at all times unless the dog walks over to them and is calm and seeks their attention. Then have the helper go back outside and repeat the exercise. If at any time your dog gets distracted, ask him to sit/go to their bed or a calm behaviour and reward after.

Always provide these lasting high value food puzzles or treats before a planned visitor arrives, they should soon start to associate the positivity with the visitor or keep distracted to a point where visitors don’t matter or aren’t a worry.

Training

Wed, 12 Feb 2020 15:16:09 GMT

Puppy Training

Puppy training is so important, it is the first stage of life which is a key learning period. Puppies have fast developmental periods, each associated with behavioural and physiological changes.

The big stage is socialisation and starts as early as 3 weeks and begins shortly after the senses are functional. Although this process is usually restricted to a limited time period (when the puppy can easily learn from positive and negative experiences), it will impact their future life as an adult dog and their relationships with their owners. It is a short period and can last up to 16 weeks which is why it is good to start training your puppy as early as possible.

Everything is new for a puppy, even the things we might not think are that scary ourselves, such as a plane in the sky, bikes, trucks, high-vis jackets, stranger in a hat etc.

You want all of these to become positive and learn that this isn’t a threat. Your pup can gain confidence and by learning this and it can help prevent future fears from developing.

The socialisation period is a challenging period for puppies as many changes occur. It is best to carry out short training sessions and keep adventures short and sweet. A young dog must not be overwhelmed throughout this period, as both an under-socialised puppy and/or one that becomes highly stressed during its first encounters is more likely to develop stress-related behavioural problems in later life. These include general nervousness, noise phobias, separation anxiety and fear aggression.

Why take you puppy to puppy class?

A successful socialisation process will help puppies develop into happy, well-balanced adult dogs and to prevent the development of future issues. Puppy socialisation and training classes are extremely beneficial.

Many owners are unaware of normal dog attitudes and how to interact with their dog. Puppy classes help owners better understand how to live with their puppies and give them the opportunity to socialise with other puppies, dogs and people. Puppy socialisation classes are often designed for puppies between 8-16 weeks of age, but of course there are training classes for puppies and dogs of whatever age.

Puppy classes, when properly carried out, can be very helpful, as correct training while the puppy is in the more ‘receptive’ socialisation phase, dramatically increases the likelihood that the dog they grow into will stay in its new home for life. However, it is also vital that steps are taken to ensure these early experiences are ‘positive’ and that the puppy is able to cope appropriately with each new stimulus.

The classes can be a fun and effective way to encourage your puppy to learn and develop into a confident, outgoing dog in all circumstances. They can increase the likelihood of a harmonious owner-dog relationship, help provide useful training techniques, get puppies used to strange different places, noises and smells, train inhibitions and self-control, get used to other dogs being nearby without the need to react or approach. They can also help prevent the development of issues such as mouthing, eliminating in unacceptable places or chewing, as well as providing useful tips and advice for puppy parents.

As they get older

The 3-9 month stage is juvenile phase and this is where your puppy will increasingly explore their environment and their behaviour responses refine. From 12 weeks they’ll go through maturation, their learning will continue.

Environmental enrichment should be provided to each puppy (and adult dog later) to ensure their welfare when living in domestic conditions. Enriching the environment is also a very important treatment tool for many behavioural issues. It can be easily accomplished by providing every single puppy with some toys for playing, kongs/food puzzles/ toys to use for distraction and self-soothing, appropriate chew items, safe and comfortable resting areas and comfy bedding, physical (walking, jogging) and mental exercise (positive reinforcement, floor food mooching, searching for ball/food/hiding items, training), food-enrichment by using food-dispensing toys, sensory enrichment, auditory: music (reggae), human voice; human interaction with petting, grooming, fun such as playing and exposure to outdoor smells and time to investigate.

How will my puppy display stress?

Exposure to loud noises, staying home alone and having to meet with unknown people or animals (through their normal training) are amongst the most stressful situations for puppies. Most of the situations puppies (and adult dogs later) find difficult to cope with are related to fear and stress. In many cases, puppies have not been properly exposed to or prepared to deal with such situations during their early age (when their brain is more receptive). When afraid, a puppy will display a “stress response”, which is a general physiological and neurological response of the body to adapt to a threatening situation. Which can lead to the following signs in puppies or dogs: Urination/defecation (diarrhea), Increased motor activity, Vocalisations (crying, whining, barking), Salivation, Trembling, Panting, Looking away/Avoidance, Nose-liking, Yawning, Low posture.

Consider using a CD-based or downloadable programs - such as Sounds Scary* can help the puppy get gradually used to loud noises. It is best to start these when they are young, but also play extremely quiet at first and very gradually increase the volume, keep sessions of playing the recordings short and try to play these when your pup is calm and in a relaxed state to begin with. Also, avoid trying to train used to the loud noises in fireworks season or around a time with loud noises, as the idea of gradually increasing the exposure to the sounds and increasing the volume can go out the window if a loud firework goes off.

Firework Fear

Wed, 12 Feb 2020 15:16:08 GMT

Is your pet scared of fireworks?

Fireworks can be scary for people, so imagine how dogs feel with sounds which are so much louder to them with their incredible ears. Firework fears are very common in dogs.

Signs to look out for sound sensitivities or fears during loud noises like fireworks include:

■ Trembling and shaking
■ Clinging to owners
■ Whining or barking excessively
■ Cowering & hiding
■ Trying to run away
■ Soiling inside the house
■ Pacing and panting
■ Refusing to eat
■ Ears back
■ Drooling

What to do:

-Dogs enjoy a calming area to go as a 'safe place', just like their own den in the wild. If they go there you don't have to follow or give them attention, just leave cosy blankets, bedding and a favourite toy and give them space, a crate is ideal for this!
-If your dog will accept food or toys during these loud times, then leave a kong or food puzzle to keep them occupied. Try to reduce the impact on your dog by keeping them inside with all the curtains, windows, doors closed and turn on the TV/radio to mask the sound.
-If you know the fireworks are coming, walk your dog early in the light and avoid having them outside, even in your garden during the events.
-Make sure your dog’s microchip is up to date in case they get scared and run out of fear.
-Be caring if your dog comes to you for support, offer genuine affection without being too sympathetic. Keep the mood light without too much concern that may transfer you are worried too. As soon as your dog has calmed a little, try to distract them into a game with a toy or into using their nose to find a treat. However it is best to keep your distance from a dog that is hiding or cowering away behind furniture or in their safe haven den - they are there to get away and be alone.
-Don’t leave your dog alone, just knowing you are there and your presence will be reassuring to them.
-Do NOT punish your dog, even if they make a mistake, this will increase their worries! The best thing to help your dog with loud sounds and fireworks, is to carry out a desensitisation programme you want to do this early, as a puppy or at least 6 months before the fireworks season. Even though habituation and training to get used to sounds is best done with dogs when they are puppies you can still help when they are older.
Use the ‘Sounds scary’ free download resource from The Dogs Trust.

Please consult your veterinarian if your dog has severe signs or really affected by fireworks, or local accredited behaviourist for help and advice.

Cat Scratching

Wed, 12 Feb 2020 13:42:10 GMT

Does your cat scratch?

Why does my cat scratch?

Cats do need to scratch, it is a natural need and helps them sharpen and flex their claws. However cats can scratch inappropriately or excessively as a subtle way of showing that they are not completely happy.

How to know if its stress scratching

If scratching is widespread in your house or your cat is particularly destructive, this may be an indicator that this may be due to stress. If this has begun all of a sudden try and work out if something has changed suddenly in their environment e.g. a new sofa.

Also ensure all your cats other resources suit their natural behaviour:

What if they don't use their scratching post?

This could also be because the scratching post is not the desired location and the carpet is.

If your cat is scratching your carpet you can redirect on desired location.

Clean all marks made by your cat scratching with warm water and soap.

This removes the “territory messages” left by your cat's paws on the furniture.

This resource is essential as all cats need to scratch!

Cat Hiding

Wed, 12 Feb 2020 13:42:09 GMT

Does your cat hide?

Cats like to hide when they are stressed so while dealing with the causes, make sure that you provide multiple cat hiding places (Cardboard boxes, baskets, open cupboards etc.). Cat hiding places should always be accessible to your cat and they prefer high places. Always respect your cat’s decision to hide and do not force them to come out.

Understand why your cat may be hiding

● Recent changes at home? (new furniture, redecorating, moving home...)
● Visitors,
● A new family member,
● A new pet at home
● Competition or tension with another cat?

Cats hiding can be completely normal and maybe nothing to worry about. They could also actually be sleeping; maybe your cat just likes that spot under your bed for some warmth, peace and quiet and finds it a nice safe place for an undisturbed snooze.

However, this would mean that your cat doesn’t spend all their time there and when under the bed, they are relaxed and always sleeping there, so look out for their body language and any signs of stress or tension. Cats spend much of their day napping, so they may choose this private, comfy place to curl up to conserve body heat and hide themselves from potential threats.

If something has changed or is new this perceived threat is not taken lightly (as they are natural prey animals) and they will hide, for example under your bed for safety until they realise that it is safe and this is not something that should be feared. Meaning your cat will come out after a while.

If your cat hides often or there hasn’t been any additions, visitors or changes to their schedule or environment. Then take your cat to the vet for a check up, it could be a sign of pain e.g. dental. Try to comfort your cat at home and create the most comfortable calm environment as possible.

Cats can hide because they feel stressed and anxious

What not to do:

● Do not scold, shout or swat or force your cat to move or do anything to control/correct them, this will make things worse. Cats will perceive this negative punishment as a threat and act fearfulling with avoidance or aggression.
● Do not forcibly remove your cat from her perceived safe area. They are in this area as it makes them feel safe and cats feel less stress when they are able to choose movement and are able to move freely. Lessening stress will likely decrease the cat’s hiding behaviour.
● As tempting as it can be, do not stroke or soothe your cat during the hiding. You may accidentally reinforce this with the praise and increase your cat’s want to hit. Instead, try to ignore the cat and give them space.

What to do:

● Do praise your cat for bravery and for any other behavior you want more of.
● Think of ways you might make it worthwhile for your cat to come out of hiding. Call your cat for meals and treats. If your cat will eat near you, try hand feeding your cat. Lack of appetite is one sign of stress. If the cat won’t take food from your hand, try sitting quietly near your cat and tossing an occasional treat. If your cat takes the treat, toss the treats closer to where you are sitting. Over time, the cat may take the treat from your hand.

If all of these suggestions fail to reduce your cat’s hiding behavior then make sure you visit with your cat frequently to give mental stimulation and ensure he or she is getting nutrition, water and access to the litter box. Or, consider giving your cat a private room that is people and pet free. Make that private room a cat sanctuary that has everything your cat needs for comfort and security.

Always take your cat to the vet if you are worried

Cat Fighting

Wed, 12 Feb 2020 13:42:08 GMT

Are your cats fighting?

Follow our “golden rules” on resources.

Duplicate: each cat must have their own food bowl, water bowl, litter box and scratching post

Separate: Spread your resources around the house. Ensure each cat has it’s own SEPARATE “dining room” and “bathroom”! This provides each cat with some privacy. Use the whole room. You can put some bowls higher up and some lower down to provide space.

Conflict management, DO NOT punish your cats when they show signs of conflict. This would cause stress and therefore lead to more conflict. Provide more than one method of escape (exits) in each room. Also can provide covered walkways or tunnels so cat’s can get around and avoid conflict. Provide plenty of places to hide/rest and perch. If conflicts cause signs like urine spraying or scratching.

If your home has frequent house fights, it's important to do your best to stop it. For your cat’s health as well as you.

This is a process that may require patience and work at training them as it can take a lot of time. But stay with it as it may get you your desired outcome, however also be aware that some cats are completely solitary and may never get along.

Cats are naturally solitary animals and can be very territorial. The fighting may occur due to territory.

Observe the cats carefully to see if you can pinpoint when and where the unwanted behavior happens. For example, does it happen around mealtimes or when you are giving attention to one of the cats?

You can help by adding more territorial space and spaces for your cats to go out their day, sleep and pass one another peacefully or escape one another.

This can prevent the cats from having to share climbing, hiding, and perching areas where fights can break out. And prevent stress or avoidance from fear of conflict.

You should increase resources, your cats should have minimum and separated.. food and water bowl each and one litter box each if not more, scratching post each and toys or cat trees/perching areas. The more the better and in different locations.

If one cat is the aggressor try and intercept things before they occur or get bad. Redirect their behavior with an interactive toy/string and lure it into play.

You can also interrupt with a sharp and short sound or ‘no’ and once they are away and cam, then you can reward this good non-violent calm behavior with fuss, food or a fun toy.

But avoid rewarding behavior you don't want to see. Try not to give food or toys after the fight has broken out.

Seeking help from an animal behaviorist may be very helpful to work out what to do, how to manage and control this situation.

A visit to the vets may be necessary. Some health issues can make cats angrier than usual as a symptom. Especially if they have only just recently started not getting along when they used to, or if your cat has now become more aggressive.

Treat the cats as though introducing them for the first time. GIve them their own areas and then make slow and short introductions.

Use controlled situations to expose the cats to each other. Make sure the cats always have an exit to make them feel comfortable and allow them to leave if things get too much.

Try to slowly see one another and then progress to being in same room whilst both being fed cats tasty foods or try to get them to engage in play so they associate being near one another to fun and positivity.

Never force them into or to leave a situation.

Give each cat one-on-one attention. If necessary, put one cat in another room while with the other cat. During one-on-one time, hand-feed treats or initiate playtime.

Home Alone

Wed, 12 Feb 2020 11:06:16 GMT

Does your pet get anxious home alone?

Dogs are social animals so when it comes to being alone for long periods it can be challenging for them. There are a few things you can do to help them learn that being alone isn't so bad and help them get used to it.

Provide a comfortable 'safe place' where your dog can stay alone and ensure it is a nice place for them to be, full of cosy blankets, chew toys, food puzzles and other distractions to stay occupied.

Consider playing music (something light, light classical or where there is a lot of talking).

When you do leave, which everyone will have to do at some point, try not to make a big deal about leaving or when you come back. To help them learn that it's not worrying or a fuss to be alone and that they can be calm and play until you return.

When arriving only provide attention and fuss when they are calm and all 4 paws are on the floor. If this is quite hard as they are extremely excited for your return then ask for a simple command that requires them to be still or calm, such as a sit and then after they follow this calm command that you've asked them, provide a treat.

After a while when you return and frequently provide treats for 4 paws to the floor or for a calm command they will provide these more often.

Another option to help your dog understand that you are going out is to add a simple cue to let them know that you are going. For example a wave and ‘bye’ or an index finger and ‘i’ll be 1 minute’. Provide food-stuffed toys or kongs filled with frozen liquid food (yogurt, chicken stock, mashed banana, peanut butter etc.) to encourage licking behaviour as this is self-soothing and can help calm them without you there.

If you want to find out what your dog is getting up to or how they are coping when alone then consider asking neighbours, if you are close with them, to keep an ear out if they are around and nearby during the day. Maybe a better option would be setting up a doggy camera so you can monitor them while you are out and see what they get up to. You might find out that something in particular sets your dog off when you are not there, for example post through the door.

If you do find any destruction when you return then try to ignore it, it isn’t personal and they’ve only destroyed it because they were so stressed that they reached the point that they had to express it through that way. Never tell them off as this will just increase their stress and make things worse.

You can help train your dog to be alone by starting small, even in a separate room and keep out of sight for a short while, then when they do not bark return and provide a treat. Build this up so you are out of sight for long periods and reward if they are calm, haven’t made any mess/destruction and haven’t barked. If they do bark or whine then do not return to them if you can and definitely do not reward them. They will learn that if I bark or whine, then you will return, which is what they want. and therefore will do it again.

Remember that every dog is different and for difficult cases it is recommended to speak to a qualified dog behaviourist and speak with your vet.